Wednesday, 23 October 2013

Hot Patterns Martini Jacket

I have had the HP Martini Jacket pattern for a while, but was undecided on fabric. I could see this being a really solid piece in my wardrobe.

Well my idea of a neutral colour went out the window when I found 'the' fabric. A gorgeous poly/viscose fabric with a quilted look and a large floral printed on it.
I wasn't thinking of the conundrum of pattern matching and other such trifles - I just had to have it!

I spent a while just staring at the fabric, trying to decide the best way to cut it out, so that the pattern at least looked like I had endevoured to match up some of it. In the end, I only had to re-cut one side front piece that didn't look quite right.

The pattern pieces went together well, and the instructions were one of the earlier Hot Patterns, so more a suggested order of construction and no diagrams. This was generally fine for me, though not necessarily suitable for a beginner.
I only had to refer to a reference book for a little help on the shawl collar as this was not a technique I had come across before. Now that I understand how this is meant to go, the instructions were fine.

I ended up pressing all my seam allowances open, and then binding them with rayon seam binding. I used this tutorial by Laura Mae of the blog, Lilacs and Lace.
The fabric has a spongy texture, so I ended up also topstitching all my seam allowances down after they were bound, and then went mad and also bound all the edges of my facings too. I think it looks really nice, but wow, it took a lot longer!!

I also found the perfect buttons at Made on Marion - thanks Maryanne!

I am so pleased with how the pattern came out, and my fabric choice - my only disappointment was that it is just a tiny bit tight through the shoulders... aaargh!
On the upside, I found more of the fabric in the Fabric Warehouse pop-up sale, so after I have re-made this in the next size up (in different fabric) to check for better fit, I am TOTALLY making this again in this fabric.


  1. it looks amazing and i love how pretty the inside is as well as the outside

  2. It's gorgeous, Wendy. I love the colour matched binding. I have one roll of cream binding that I use for everything (there is so much of it, it seems too indulgent to buy more). Though it looks like you used a few metres!

  3. Wow, it came together great! The way you've placed the pattern is fantastic. A great job!